Editor’s Note: “Over a Beer” is a regular column written by Greg Heil. While Greg is the Editor in Chief for Singletracks.com, any opinions expressed in this column are his alone and do not necessarily represent the opinions of Singletracks.com.
When I first rode plus tires, I thought they were a gift from the mountain biking gods, sent down to earth with a mission: to rescue us from inferior traction and pinch flats.
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But as time went on and I gathered more and more experience on plus-size tires, my rose colored glasses shattered in my hands. Now I’m of the firm opinion that 27.5+ tires are way overrated, and another example of a new product not standing up to the hype used to sell it. Here are 5 reasons why.
1. A Quality Plus Tire Is Too Heavy
Quality plus tires are just too heavy for human-powered mountain biking. It takes too much work to propel that much tire around and around and around again. The limiting factor in mountain bike design is the human body—what can a human being reasonably do? How is the human body shaped? Unless you add a motor to your frame and still try to claim it’s a bicycle, weight will continue to be a critical limiting factor for human-powered transportation.
While some plus tires do offer decent-sized knobs, few bike brands are speccing aggressive treads because they’re just too heavy. The result is that we’re left with tires with relatively low profile knobs—don’t expect to find many plus tires designed for pinning down black diamond trails.
2. Casings and Sidewalls Are Too Light and Flimsy
Since a quality plus tire with all of the durability that we’ve come to expect from respectable mountain bike tires is just too heavy, that has led most tire brands to make their plus tires lighter. However, that means that they sacrifice beefiness on the sidewalls and casings. Result: plus tires aren’t durable
One consequence of flimsy sidewalls is that while the marketing materials say, “you can run lower pressures and get tons of traction,” the reality is that you CAN’T run pressure too low because you will STILL pinch flat–even when running tubeless. And even if you are running high pressures, you can easily tear the light casings on sharp rocks.
3. They Don’t Corner Well
Another result of the light tire casing is that at low pressures, the tires are liable to fold over in the corners. That makes for an unpredictable and generally un-fun cornering experience.
4. Undamped Tire Bounce
If you think, “hey, I can handle a little tire squirm in the corners and I don’t have too many sharp rocks in my trails,” you’ll still be faced with another consequence of running low tire pressure: undamped tire bounce. As anyone who’s spent a lot of time on a fat bike knows, tuning the bounce out of a fat bike tire is an art form and requires the perfect tire pressure for the specific conditions you’re riding. If you’re still trying to achieve “traction” from a low pressure plus tire, you too will be faced with the fat biker’s dilemma of traction VS tire bounce.
5. Plus Tires Don’t Bite in Loose Conditions
If you can’t have big knobs because they weigh too much, and if you’re running higher tire pressures to avoid having the casing deform in corners, pinch flat in the rocks, or bounce in the rough, here is the culmination of all these factors, the number one reason that I can’t stand plus-size tires: they don’t bite in loose conditions. In fact, plus tires tend to slide at the worst possible time.
Common sense would say, “the wider the tire, the better the traction in loose conditions,” but that’s just not the case with plus tires. Due to the relatively low profile knobs and the relatively high pressures, the tires tend to slip and slide on the surface of the loose dirt or scree, because they can’t dig in deep and find purchase.
Traction in loose conditions comes from either digging through the loose dirt to find the hard surface underneath or digging in deep enough that the tire connects with enough soil to provide some semblance of control. If the tire instead grabs the top layer and then pushes that top layer across the rest of the soft soil, the result is a crash for the mountain biker.
But aren’t plus tires good in certain conditions?
The conditions that I have found plus tires to most excel in are hardpack trails with relatively few technical features. But doesn’t every tire hook up well in hardpack conditions?
50 Comments
Sep 6, 2017
And yet, I have been on a couple plus bikes where I have had totally indescribable fun. The silly grin on my face was anything but logical, but there it was. There's something about the uniqueness of the ride on a good plus bike that puts the childlike joy back in riding. In my case, that would be on a fully rigid plus bike rather than a fully or hard tail.
Another condition where the mid fats shine is in the ubiquitous and seemingly bottomless gravel around Colorado Springs. Shredding Captain Jack's was never so fun as it was on a plus bike!
Sep 7, 2017
Nov 26, 2020
I have discovered that interest in 2.8 and lesser tires is zero. I have been riding Rocket Ron Liteskin 3.0's over the time that they have been available without this drama. Any of it!
I get trialsy on every ride, be it street or dirt. Trials riders are astute at line and tire placement so slicing sidewalls is the move of inexperience at least and at most laziness on any tire size or rim width.
Classifying a rider segment is more subjecting that saddles and tire pressure!
How does a bloke classify a trials-centric offroader, they just freakin don't, that's how! Integrating trials into offroad is a whole new universe since trials does NOT become a skillset without countless hours of practice.
Frankly, chastising a discipline is pathetic! It may not be my cup of tea however, I respect those participating in a given discipline. It is all about bikes and bikes are cool people, just sayin'.
Sep 8, 2017
I think you are pretty disconnected with what the majority of riders are asking for. In the media, there is this common misperception that the industry is always trying to cram new things down customers throats, but the reality is that bicycle and parts companies are businesses, we are in the market to sell things that customers are asking for.
Terrene is a very small startup. We don't go investing $15k on a tire mold just for sh!ts and grins. Everything we make is the result of riding, and talking to tons of riders about what they want. The plus tires we make were the ones being asked for the most. And yes, our tires are heavier than most, and we are proud of that. Why? Most common comment we heard from riders is that they didnt care if tires were a few hundred grams heavier, they wanted a tire that would last through more than a few rides. They were tired of all the anemic tires being marketed by weight, that were so thin they didn't hold up.
So while plus tires may not be right for you (and thats OK), there are a lot of riders out there who desire them. "Overrated" just seems to be a term used as clickbait.
Sep 10, 2017
Sep 8, 2017
Sep 8, 2017
Based on the discussions your company has had with riders about the types of tires they want, do you get a sense that some part of their motivation is FOMO -- fear of missing out? I guess I'm really wondering what drives tech adoption in the bike industry. Some people seem to think it's the media, others say it's the brands, while you seem to be suggesting it is consumers. I suspect all of these feed on each other and swirl around a bit, which make it tough to know who is really driving the bus... With brands, the media, and consumers all having a say that should at least lead to a healthy market.
Jan 24, 2020
As always, thank you for the excellent articles, the ability to comment on your articles and the great job you do as stewards of this sport we love so much.
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
1. Maxxis Highroller 2 - 3C/EXO/TR 27.5 x 2.8: 910g
Maxxis Highroller 2 - 3C/EXO/TR 29 x 2.3: 920g (DD casing 1135g)
Terrene Chunk Light 27.5 x 3: 940g - Tough casing 1060g
Terrene Chunk Light 29 x 2.3: 880g - Tough casing 1060g
Using lightbicycle's website for wheelset weights, an i30 29er set up weighs 1672g. A 650B set up using i40 rim with identical parts weighs 1662g.
Your argument about weight is invalid. You could argue the point that adding in extra sealant could tip the scales in either direction in regards to weight between the wheelsets when complete.
Also, I use the Chunk on my bike. I've not experienced any problems with tire folding over, failing to have traction, or cutting sidewalls for any reason other than my stupidity. As shown above, even the Chunk is only slightly heavier than its 29er counterpart in light version and still on par with other brand's aggro tires in tough version.
2. First gen tires did have weaker sidewalls. Mfgs also tried to use existing pattern on plus casings and ended up having corner knobs nowhere near the side of the tire. Some mfgs still design tires this way on purpose to avoid excess weight and its up to you and 50 gallons of Stan's/Orange/ect to keep your tire inflated. Add in the fact that people STILL try to run a i30 rim width with a 2.8-3" wide tire at 14psi and wonder why they have squirm, vague cornering, and additional rim strikes/snake bites, and I can see why people would think this.
A 2.8" wide tire should be running on an i35-i40 rim and a 3" wide tire should be i40-i50 in order to properly support the tire. Here are some rim to tire width ratios (tire size is irrelavent when considering width):
3.0 tire on i50: 1.52
3.0 tire on i45: 1.68
3.0 tire on i40: 1.90
2.8 tire on i50: 1.42
2.8 tire on i45: 1.57
2.8 tire on i40: 1.77
2.8 tire on i35: 2.02
2.6 tire on i45: 1.46
2.6 tire on i40: 1.65
2.6 tire on i35: 1.88
2.6 tire on i30: 2.20
For comparison, here are common rim widths for normal tires:
2.4 tire on i30: 2.03
2.4 tire on i28: 2.17
2.4 tire on i25: 2.44
2.3 tire on i30: 1.93
2.3 tire on i28: 2.17
2.3 tire on i25: 2.44
Most plus tires are now designed specifically to be run with a wider than "Accepted" rim width. The rim width allows additional volume in the tire to help support the sidewall. A narrow rim cannot do this, hence the vague feeling. If you compare the 2.4" on an i30 rim to a 2.8" tire on an i35 rim and 3" tire on an i40 rim, youll see that theyre all basically the same ratio, meaning that you'll have the same amount of sidewall support provided the tires are constructed correctly, not just a stretched small tire tread pattern slapped on a larger carcass.
3. Tread design and rubber durometer play a larger factor here than the myths you continue to purpotrate. Additionally, citing the aforementioned consumer (and sometimes mfg) ignorance about tire pressure and rim widths leads continued misconceptions.
4. At the top end of biking as a sport, yes, there can be problems with tire bounce. However, AGAIN, some of this is mitigated when a proper rim width and tire pressure (for your weight) is selected. You can still have a problem with sidewalls not giving enough support during extremely high g cornering (like in bike parks or actual competitions). There is some merit to the cornering dilema but the vast majority of bikers will never experience this.
Comparing a fat tire to a normal or plus tire is silly considering a fat tire has FAR more volume and weight than a plus tire. In fact, the gap between plus and fat is wider than it is between normal and plus. Why on earth would you even bring up a fat tire to begin with?
5. More of the same here. Select the proper rim with for the tire and run it at a pressure that prevents rock strikes. The sqiurm will take care of itself. Yes, there can be some issue here but again, this is at profesional levels and/or at a bike park on terrain that less than 1% of the mtb community will ever see.
Plus tires have come a LONG way since their introduction. Sadly, the understanding of their implementation has not. More education needs to take place before the old geezers with their 26" walkers come to grips with seeing a big tire on a bike. Conversely, a plus tire is not a one size fits all solution. Just like low profile tires have their limits, so to plus tires. Theyre a situational tire that happens to fill a lot of check marks for the average rider and those that need more traction.
Your article is full of unsubstantiated accusations and ignorant claims based on outdated info. There is very little evidence to support most claims made and even those expressed that DO have truth are taken with a grain of salt because any sane person understands that tire size, just like tread design, is situational.
Sep 8, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Dec 17, 2018
A 27.5 plus hold much more speed than a 2.3 etc. You can break later, corner harder and generally charge on with greater speed and grip.
The traction is similar to a DH tire, but 2.8's can be much lighter so you can ride them XC, trail and DH (a little bit depending on your tire choice). A nobby nic and rocket ron 2.8 combo is super fast, light (960g and 785g) and good for most riding.
Tire choice has improved since 2017 and you can find a good tire for most riding conditions. A quality tire no longer is too heavy.
Too much bounce is because you have the wrong tire pressure.
To say they don't grip in the loose is not the full picture. A 2.8 or 3.0 will 'float' over and not get bogged down like a 2.3 does. I challenge you to wash out with a 2.8 nobby nic on the front. Good luck with that.
I ride in NSW and its mostly loose over hard sand stone. Zero sidewall damage in 2000km.
I have a 10kg carbon 29er I race XC on. I had to take my RM Pipeline 140mm duel suspension to a 3 hour XC race as my hard tail was at the shop. Rode it and came in second. A few months later we had a 70 min XC race there and I took the HT, My average speed was EXACTLY the same.
What does it all mean? You can do way more on a plus bike than you can on a 'regular 29er. If you lose anything on a climb you more than make up for it ever where else on the trail. I have 4000km of Strava data to prove it.
Sep 6, 2017
The other points. I see what you are saying but I never had any issues with my 27.5 plus
Sep 8, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Old dudes rule
Sep 6, 2017
I rode plus bike only for half a day and found all points you brought to be true. Second half of the day rode my 29er with more aggressive tires on the same trail and it felt much faster and better cornering.
About human being a limiting factor, it's all relative. Those folks who ride fat bikes, will appreciate faster and lighter plus bike with extra traction. While others who don't ride anything but regular tires will suffer with added weight of plus bikes. As Jeff said, these bikes has its own niche.
I'd give plus bike a try, only after swapping tires to more aggressive 2.4-2.5 width.
Sep 6, 2017
I have a NN 3.0 front and forecaster 2.6 rear.
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
A good next over a beer might be, "5 reasons why plus tires are awesome" to make up for some of the hate on this one.
Sep 8, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Oct 10, 2017
On average, I'm the fastest I've ever been with these tires. I haven't noticed any of the negatives noted in this article. What I have noticed is much improved traction on everything which generally keeps me from spinning the back or washing out the front. Weird. Maybe I'm goldilocks.
Sep 6, 2017
I also hear people advising newbies to get a super slack bike so you do not go over the bars as easy and I think my statement applies there as well. I think it is better to learn the skills that would prevent endos rather than relying on the bike for that. Like many of us, I came up in the 26 inch, 2 inch tire, 71 degree headtube days; it was not that hard to learn to ride
That said, I have only done minimal riding on a 27.5+ bike so I am not the best to comment on it. I'm sure it is fun at times, as a second bike
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
The major counterpoint I feel wasn't addressed is cost, as compared to suspension components. Maybe I feel the need to justify my rigid fat tire bike purchase, but larger tires provide some of the benefits of suspension with virtually none of the maintenance or additional cost.
Especially for new(er) riders who aren't willing to drop thousands on a full squish bike, I think plus tires are at worst, a compromise, and at best, an advantage. As a rider gains skill, the 'need' for larger tires may diminish.
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 15, 2017
I gave up road biking and MTB'ing 4 years ago, and have just purchased a 2011 Scott Spark 20 in mint condition.
It is fitted with Maxxis 26 x 2.25 tyres.
After reading this article and all the comments, am I riding on the equivalent of Henry Ford Model A tyres?
I hasten to add I am 71 years old and stick to novice or Intermediate grade tracks so I don't kill myself.
Are these size tyres now classed as antiques?
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 8, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Great bike, was awsome at powering through rocky loose and sandy trails.
I still like my 29er a little more because it handles better at speed, the plus bike seemed a little floppy on the turns at high speed.
Also my 29er is better at rolling over rocks as opposed to powering through them.
Both setups are fun and worth checking out
Sep 7, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
Sep 7, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
It's true the tire pressures can be a little bit finicky, but once I got them dialed I haven't had issues with tire bounce or squirm.
I will say, for me at least, 3.0" tires DID present a lot of the problems you've described in the article. Never had problems with punctures, I rode the same WTB Bridger 3.0s for almost 11 months before swapping them out, but it did seem almost impossible to stop squirming or bouncing. When the time came I switched to the 2.8 Maxxis tires listed above and have loved them ever since.
Sep 8, 2017
Sep 6, 2017
I love My Bomboloni's.
Nov 13, 2019
Nov 13, 2019
Sep 6, 2017