Lindarets–makers of the Remount and Goat Link–have announced the “Boostinator,” a clever bit of kit that allows you to adapt certain 100x15mm front and 142x12mm rear hubs to the wider Boost standard. Assuming you have a wheelset with compatible hubs, it could save you a huge chunk of change when you upgrade to a new Boost frame and fork.

How does it work?

If you haven’t been following all the hoopla about Boost, the biggest takeaway is the wider spacing allows for stiffer wheels and better tire clearance. Although, to take advantage of those benefits, you need Boost-specific hubs where the flanges are actually farther apart. Until now.

Boostinator DF3 Exploded Wireframe copy — Diagram of the front hub

For the front wheel, Lindarets has developed a longer axle end cap that will go on the drive side of the hub. This modification will require a re-dishing of the front wheel in order for the rim to be centered properly in the fork. It’s a fairly simple task that your local shop can knock out in no time if you’re not comfortable doing it yourself.

Rear hub diagram — Diagram of the rear hub

The rear wheel is a little more involved. In addition to a longer axle end cap–in this case on the non-drive side–there is a spacer that will mount behind the brake rotor to provide proper alignment with the caliper. Lindarets also provides longer bolts for the rotor since the standard ones will be too short to use.

Compatible Hubs

Select DT Swiss, Hope, and White Industries
- Contact Lindarets for questions about compatibility
Kits will range from $25-$40 including shipping

Questions?

Lindarets anticipated there would be some common questions regarding the Boostinator kits, and have provided the answers below.

Q: What about the rim–won’t it be off center?
A: That’s true–but it’s an easy fix with some benefits:

By shifting the hub flanges a few millimeters, dish is reduced and spoke bracing angles are brought closer to symmetric for a (slightly) stiffer, stronger build.

A typical rear wheel (Velocity Blunt on DT 240s) will see its effective non-drive side spoke length reduced by 0.4mm, the drive side by 0.1mm- both minimal changes and well within typical spoke length tolerances.

In the example above, the drive-side spokes will need to be loosened 7/8-turn, the non-drive tightened by 1/4-turn.

Your wheels probably wanted a true already, didn’t they?

Various end caps, rotor spacer, and longer bolts

Q: The bolts are longer–they’ll all break and people will die!
A: We wondered about this too–so enlisted some engineers from our local nuclear weapons laboratory (seriously) to crunch the numbers. It turns out that, with the spacer installed each bolt is four times stronger than needed to handle the forces generated by the strongest brakes on the market. That said:

Rear Boostinator kits are not approved for rotors larger than 183mm

Thread-locking compound is required for installation

Boostinator mounted to a rear wheel

Q: The axle is unsupported–won’t it be flexy and horrible?
A: With the thru axle bearing the load the model is essentially identical to a Boost-native hub with slightly closer bearing placement.

On the drive side, where the majority of unsupported axle lies, nothing changes.

There are countless variables that contribute to a wheel’s stiffness. While the system won’t be quite as stiff as a true Boost wheel–but it will be very close (and a whole lot less expensive).

Q: Will I need a new crankset or spider?
A: Possibly.

In the case of multi-ring drivetrains or when using plus-sized wheels and tires, a Boost-specific spider is recommended, not only for shifting performance but for frame and tire clearance as well.

If running a single chainring or more “normal” tires, likely not. Visit our friends at Wolf Tooth Components for an explanation of why.