Against the Grain isn’t Bad Religion’s best album, but it’s a damn fine offering. The songs tend to be lead-guitar-heavy, and I would put the ten tracks from Suffer above it for the band’s Best Of list. However, against the grain as a life philosophy fits a lot of my personal preferences and some decision-making processes. Maybe “question everything” is a better way to phrase it.
My penchant for over biking falls hard into this conceptual crevasse, as nearly all of my trail friends are fans of the flipside: under-biking. Put simply, underbiking means you have a bike with a little less travel or capability than you need on most rides, and over biking means that you have a little extra of those same elements. My underbiked buddies like to say that a less capable bike forces them to keep their skills sharper and makes the trail more exciting. Pro Rider Geoff Kabush has practically made a personal brand out of short travel on big trails. That’s a fantastic and valid perspective, and I have a different one.
Having ridden and raced single-speed XC and CX bikes for many years, I understand the appeal of underbiking. I also recall myself and other single speeders on our hardtails blathering statements like “I would have cleaned that, but ya know, it’s harder on a single-speed.” While certainly not true of all single speeders, I now see that my bike’s capability was being used as an excuse. Those same excuses can sometimes be extended to shorter travel bikes, where people will say they didn’t hit the drop because they don’t have enough travel. The more humble reality might be that they weren’t comfortable hitting the drop on any bike, or were not in the mood on that particular day. If you’re over biked for the trail, you can’t make any of those statements, and instead, have to be humble and comfortable with your personal safety decisions. Fortunately, there’s a good chance you don’t need to say anything because no one cares if you hit the drop or ride around it. Your friends just want to have fun in the woods together. No need to point fingers at the bike.
In the same vein, you can take that bike that’s too much for your local tracks to a gnarlier slope without the need to own a fleet of expensive trail toys. While it’s great to have the “right tool for the job” most of us can’t afford to own a suitable bike for every place we might pedal. A 160mm bike that’s designed to race enduro takes a little extra energy to move on flatter, local trails and it’s right at home when I get to venture out toward taller peaks. The elusive “quiver killer” might just be the bike that works everywhere, and excels in the most challenging spots.
With added travel and more aggressive geometry, you can go bigger on the chill trails, potentially making the bike feel a little less “over” and more “party.” Folks like to say that leggy gravity sleds make the trails feel too easy, but have y’all tried doubling the pace and loft-height on those same trails? While less travel likely makes sense, a big bike can be a lot of fun on mellow trails if you let go of the brakes and aim to bunny hop or nose-bonk everything in sight.
One of the best bits of over biking is that shit seldom breaks. My bike is always ready for the gnarliest trails my guts can handle, and the reinforced tires and components very rarely fail. This is essentially the opposite of my experience with lightweight single-speed and geared XC bikes, and I’m not in a hurry to move back toward feathery components. When there’s a rough chunk in a tame trail I can push through it as hard as I want and never worry about a flat tire or busted rim. Mechanicals still happen, but their frequency is almost irrelevant compared to daily punctures that were accepted as the norm in years past.
So, is there a too-over biked? Yes, undoubtedly. I still prefer to pedal to the top of the mountain, and DH bikes are not designed for ascending. Some dual-crown machines are lighter than the size large Madonna I’m riding, with shorter wheelbases, but their slack seat tube angles relegate them to the chairlift or shuttle trailer. The cutoff for me is with bikes that can’t be pedaled with a tolerable level of efficiency and comfort.
Alongside the ascribed privileges that give me unearned advantages in life, like being born male and white, I am privileged with heaps of time to ride bikes and test the best new toys. It’s easier for someone like myself who gets to maintain a decent level of fitness to enjoy over biking. If I were only able to ride on the weekends, or I couldn’t afford to travel to new trail centers that require a longer travel bike, I would likely join team under bike.
35 Comments
Dec 12, 2021
I got it 8 years ago, and its probably overbike for 95% of what I ride. Its 150mm front, maybe 130 back?
I remember the first season I got it, and some smug jackhole made fun of it on a trail that wasn't particular difficult.
FF to today and my bike is without-a-doubt below average compared to what I see on those same trails. I wager that smug prick from years back is probably now more overbiked.
Still, its annoying to have someone judge you based on the particular bike you are riding on any given day and trail. Whether its under, over, beater, expensive, whatever. You don't know me or my financial values in life. Eff off.
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Dec 8, 2021
This is the only thing that matters. If underbiking lets me get to the top a little tiny bit faster, but then I'm walking out a broken bike after a misjudgement on something that underbiking is allegedly making "more interesting", then that is:
a) a waste of time dealing with a broken bike, vastly negating whatever time is saved getting to the top faster
b) potentially expensive in time & money to be replacing parts instead of just maintaining
I think if you need underbiking to make your trails exciting again, maybe you need to look at how you're riding. Sure you might get more miles in, but shouldn't it be about the time and not the distance? As mentioned, I also find overbiking to actually make trails more fun because it opens up options. You're more likely to try weird lines if you're not worried about your bike be "capable" enough.
And you can't forget that being overbiked does NOT preclude you from riding it like it's less "capable", picking and choosing precise lines, or whatever. Where as underbiking very often limits your options unless you want to greatly up the risk of breaking things.
Underbiking puts limits on so much more of the whole ride experience, while overbiking doesn't really limit anything except maybe absolute climbing speed, but as you said that kinda shouln't matter: "Your friends just want to have fun in the woods together."
Dec 11, 2021
Dec 8, 2021
As the saying goes, anything worth doing is worth overdoing. :)
Dec 8, 2021
I have a new 160mm bike or order and curious how it's going to feel, being overbiked a bit. I do feel like the 140-150mm is the sweet spot for the trails we ride.
I kinda feel like the excitement of underbiking green/blue trails on a gravel bike is pretty fun and the consequences are lower compared to getting in over your head on double-black diamond on 120-130mm bike.
Dec 9, 2021
Also, don't get too hung up on travel. You're talking about 1 centimeter, less than half an inch, between 150 and 160. It's not going to make or break your ride experience. More important than travel numbers, compare the rest of the bike: brakes, pads, tires, and suspension settings, to those of your crew. Especially the ones that ride with similar techniques to you. Perhaps with, for example, just beefier tires and some suspension tweaks, the 130 bike is perfectly good for your ride style on those trails.
My crew rides bikes that range from 130 to 160 (might even be a 170...), but they're all built-up similarly to fit the terrain, with tough & grippy tires, powerful brakes, and well-controlled suspension.
Dec 9, 2021
Good point about underbike consequences being lower on green/blue trails. I'm guilty of sometimes using underbiking as an excuse to avoid certain features, which Gerow definitely calls out here.
Dec 10, 2021
On FS bike, it's a bit of mix limit of my abilities or the bikes ability under my piloting. But once you up the bikes limits, it also makes up for my ability limits as well - or as you say gives you buffer. Being 150lbs, I'm easy on components in general. But I'm looking forward to be overbiked, knowing that the real limit is my abilities.
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Perhaps gravel bikes (room for wide tires and fenders, "endurance" ride position, comfort over aero) should just be considered "road" bikes, and current road bikes (no need for fenders, "race/attack" ride position, aero over comfort) should be called "road-race" bikes.
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Dec 9, 2021
When people talk about over vs underbiking they usually are only talking about travel. More travel is really just more air and some math. I see so many short travel bikes with heavy tires, big brakes, etc. because they are trying to keep up. At that point I don't see why you wouldn't just ride a bigger bike.
I have a 170/170 29er and a beefy hardtail because my life is blessed.
Dec 9, 2021
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Dec 10, 2021
but suspension in itself is a great protective feature for yourself and your bike, especially the rear. hardtail - no thank you. if you wish to ditch one of the suspensions, do away with the front first.
yes, i am serious.
Dec 11, 2021
As a hardtail and full rigid rider I much appreciate front suspension for absorbing hits through my arms and shoulders. If you aren't a former bmxer, the most skilled riders usually are.. then maybe you don't know how to absorb landings with your legs? I've done a few double black diamond trails around the country on a a big hit slack hardtail but wouldn't consider no front suspension...